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Trat

Trat Town

Directions: Head east from Pattaya along Sukhumvit towards Rayong. Go through Rayong, Chantaburi, and finally you'll see signs for Trat. Count on a 3-hour journey from Pattaya by road. Minibuses run to Laem Ngop, which is the drop-off point for Koh Chang. Ask nicely and they may well take you to Trat town.

Ko Chang is the main reason people head to Trat. But the provincial town, just 20 kms away from the coast, is a quiet, quaint town that gives visitors a glimpse of a typical Thai community.
Ferries to Ko Chang leave from Laem Ngop or nearby piers. The island is a major draw for Thais and foreigners, while Trat town has been left almost completely void of development. Which makes it a wonderful place to explore.
Trat is the easternmost province in Thailand and borders Cambodia. It’s mainly surrounded by mountains and dense virgin forest to the south and east. Wildlife lovers tend to flock here, and to its 52 islands, as the surrounding area boasts mangrove forests, waterfalls and beaches.

The town centre looks as though nothing new has been built for 20 years. The town department store has none of the glitz or sparkle of Central, or even 7-Eleven, come to that.
Maybe it's because most of the 20,000 people who live here do their shopping in the numerous markets dotted around town. Just down from the department store is a day market crammed into a long, narrow road. Here you can stroll between the narrow alleys and choose from delicious mango and sticky rice, fried snacks or fruit.
If you do arrive too late for the last ferry to Ko Chang, there are a few guesthouses in a road just to the south of the town. Trat is so small you can easily park up and walk anywhere, so you don't have to worry about directions too much.

Accommodation here is simple but comfortable; you'll have real trouble spending more than 500 baht a night. If you do arrive at the local bus station, to the north of town, expect to be greeted by a small army of guesthouse staff. A lift to the guesthouses will only cost 20 baht, and then you'll be able to make your own mind up.
The town isn't overflowing with attractions, but the one place definitely worth a visit is Wat Buppharam, which is 2km from the town centre and well sign-posted.

The oldest temple in Trat, it was built in 1652 during the Ayuthaya period. The collection of modest buildings inside the leafy grounds house a wooden reclining Buddha, flaking murals inside the main ordination hall (the Phra Ubosot), and some relics inside the Wihaan, or hall.

Buildings are modest by Thai standards, and evidence of their early style can be seen in the plain roofs (as opposed to the mosaic-clad ones in more modern temples).
Among the more inspired features is a statue of a monk. Pop 10 baht in a slot and the statue will bring its hands together in prayer and a speaker behind will chant for a moment or two.

The museum to the rear of the grounds has an odd collection of plaster-cast dogs at the front, guarding collections of beer and water bottles.
Also just outside of town is a reservoir, a good place to catch the sunset at one of several restaurants. If you want to be even more removed from things, look for the health park or the Kaoragun reservoir.

Come the evening, options are limited, but you could do worse than head for Somkanay, a bar which features live Thai music on most evenings. There are other restaurants around this area, or you could head down the road to Laem Ngop where there are some good seafood options.

Also in Laem Ngop, just near the pier, is an excellent Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) office, which offers maps and detailed brochures about Ko Chang and Trat in general.
If you're after some authentic souvenirs, pick up some of the wicker baskets, or the legendary yellow oil (namman leuang), which is said to do wonders for any aches and ailments.

Once you've seen Trat, which will only take a day, you could head south towards a small collection of beaches. These include Sai Ngern, Sai Kieow, Tap Nim, Mai Root and Ban Chuen. Don't expect many facilities, but also you won't have to share sand with any tourists either.

History
The word ‘Trat’ seems to derive from the word 'trash', a Khmer word meaning rubber tree, as there used to be many of these in the area. The first use of 'Trat' came as recently as 1927.
The area has had mixed fortunes over the years, and had several owners. King Rama V had to hand it over to the French, along with Ko Kong in the east (which is still part of Cambodia).

On March 23, 1906, Thailand gave up Siem Reap and Battambang, but got Trat and some small islands back. March 23 is now celebrated as Trat's independence day. Visit around this time and you'll see plenty of parades and parties.
During World War Two the Thai navy saw off the French in what was known as the Ko Chang Naval Battle, although it lost three warships in the process.

And a little trivia: Thailand's narrowest point can be found along the Trat-Khlong Yai road at Ban Khai Sai, Mu 2 at the km 81 marker. Here it's a mere 450 metres from the Banthat mountain to the coast.

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