Ko Larn

Fact File

Getting there: Ko Larn is 7kms off the Pattaya coast. A speed boat will take around 20 minutes and cost you around 2,000 baht. A passenger boat is a cheaper version. These leave from 8am every two hours and the trip takes 45 minutes. Last boat back is 6.30pm. The fare is 30 baht a person, although they may charge more if you want to be dropped at Samae Beach.

Getting around: Songtaews ferry people between beaches for set fees (providing there are enough people on the bus). From Ta Wan Beach, it’s 50 baht to anywhere except Naban Port, which is 30 baht.

Sleeping: Seabeach Guesthouse near Naban Pier is a welcoming resort (081 8103107; www.seabeachthailand.com; 1,200 baht)

Information

Ko Larn is a fairly remarkable island. Being so close to Pattaya you'd expect it to be a centre for commercialism, replete with 7-elevens, guesthouses and the like.

But despite being the nearest island to Pattaya, it's remarkably undeveloped, and that's one of the reasons why so many tourists seek out its shores.

In truth, Ko Larn doesn't come close to some of Thailand's finest beaches - you need to head a few hundred kilometres south to find those - but what it does it does well.

Getting there is simple enough. There's a jetty just behind Walking Street (heading towards Jomtien). Parking is available at a couple of spots opposite if you bring your car. The ferry ride lasts and hour and the moment you step onto the island, expect to be mobbed by deckchair stewards, intent on finding you somewhere to sit. They'll insist everywhere else is full, although a cursory glance along the shoreline will reveal otherwise, so walk off and find a quieter spot away from the landing areas.

Ko Larn's beaches are reasonable and the water is good for children, as sections are zoned off to prevent wayward jet skies from venturing too close. Having said that there have been some nasty accidents involving jet-skis and tourists around here, so do not go swimming anywhere that is not properly zoned.

If there's one downside to Ko Larn, it is a little pricey. You might be able to get a plate of fried rice on the other side of the water for 30 baht, but you'll be lucky to get a bottle of water here for the same price.

Each section of deckchairs has a small restaurant behind it, and waiters regularly bring out drinks and food. Many visitors have cottoned on to the high prices and now bring their own packed lunches.

Options here include lazing on the beach getting into the water, aboard either speed boats, jet skis or banana boats. Under the water is a more interesting prospect (it's not called Coral Island for nothing). Despite the intense tourism here, a lot of the coral is good. Boats will take you to check out Koh Khrok and Koh Sak (mortar and pestle islands, respectively).

There are several beaches to choose from, which range from ridiculously over-crowded to complete isolation. On the eastern edge is Ta Waen Beach, which has a long sweeping coastline. It's popular with Thais as it's the place to be if you want a banana boat. Deckchairs here are 20 baht while sunloungers are 100 baht. From here it's a short walk to Sangwan Beach, which is smaller and more peaceful.

If you don't fancy listening to boat engines all afternoon, a better bet is Thong Lang Beach, a small patch of sand where you'll be lucky to see anyone else. It's also one of the best spots for snorkelling in the shallows.

Samae Beach is a long stretch of beach usually occupied by foreign sun-seekers. It also has a viewing platform.

At the southern-most point sits Nual Beach, a private strip of land that comes with a few hotels near the sea. Maybe the most chilled out beach is Thien (candle beach), out on the western coast. If you're after a Thai massage, this is a great place to relax and get one. Backpackers tend to stay around here as there are tents available.

If you prefer to stay in rooms that have permanent walls, then head for Samae Beach.

For a relatively small island (its widest point is 2km) it gets an amazing amount of visitors, some say up to 5,000 people a day during the high season.

Once you're on the island the best way to get around is by hiring a motorbike (if you go on the ferry you can take your bike across with you). Inland there are some interesting forest areas to explore, and you'll get more out of this if you find a local guide to show you around. If you're lucky you may even run into some of the local monkeys that live there.

Koh Larn remains relatively unspoiled, although some spots are fast being eaten up by commercialisation. If you do go, think about which beach you're heading to first, as each has its own good and bad points.

If you happen to be with a group, then chartering a speed boat for the day is a good way to see all the island, as well as do some snorkelling. Either way, it's a good option if you want to see some of the better beaches but don’t plan on heading south. (pics: Tamnanpar)

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